Jerusalem Syndrome

I woke up two days ago to find that there was no water in the Kfar Hastudentim (Student Village). I had yet to shower, wash my face, brush my teeth or make myself breakfast. And I had piles of dirty dishes in my room that needed to be done. I went about my morning routine as best as I could without water, splashing some really old water from a water bottle on my face when I could no longer stand feeling dirty. Why, I wondered, did I have no idea that the water would be shut off? Why had no signs been posted?

When I walked out of my apartment building to head to class, I saw why. Take a look:

It is often a source of hilarity for us native English speakers to read signs posted in Israel. Reading this explains why no one was aware that the water would be shut off. After all, I am not currently in need of a massage...

My amusement with living in Israel continued. Our apartment's walls have been molding. When my roommate requested that someone came in to fix this problem, their way of solving the problem was to scrap off the paint and then paint over it. I am no expert, but I'm pretty sure that won't stop mold from growing for very long...

The shelves in the cabinet where I store all my food broke today as I was rushing out the door. This prompted me to actually clean them out. I discovered some forgotten ginger. Who knew that ginger grew so well in a slightly damp, dark place?

Living with people is always interesting. I live with 4 girls, all dancers, from the States. We are very, very clean and conscientious of the way that we live, which I love. Our apartment is usually pretty quiet. However, one roommate is...lacking in maturity. Smoking in the apartment, screaming at her mother on skype, refusing to clean, never buying anything for the apartment...honestly, she is not the worst roommate we could have. Aside from her inability to understand that our walls are paper thin (hurrah for ear plugs!), she never makes a mess. We hardly know she is around sometimes (which can be kind of creepy when you think you are alone in the apartment and she shows up).
Because she never buys anything for the apartment, we decided that we would try to guilt her into doing it. The typical conversation took place: "Will you buy toilet paper for the apartment?" "Sure." We all knew we would never see hide nor hair of said toilet paper (ew), and that we had to take action. So, the 4 of us have kept our toilet paper rolls in our rooms, hoping that she will buy toilet paper out of desperation. But it has been 4 days! And she has definitely gone to the bathroom! She has yet to say anything and she still has not bought toilet paper! Crazy!

I think it is about that time. It is that time when living here feels more normal and it is less of a novelty to experience the chaos that is living in abroad. My friends who are abroad for the semester are getting ready to head back. But I have a month and a half left in Israel. I have been here for 3 already. And I am starting to feeling both the affects of being abroad, being away from home for so long and being in Jerusalem.

"I have to get out of Jerusalem!" A friend said. I had no idea why he sounded so desperate, but I hopped on a bus with him headed to Tel Aviv. And my eyes were opened. I was astonished how different it felt to be back in a world I recognized. The feeling of tension, of unseen boundaries was completely gone. People were walking around in fashionable clothes, outfits that they had obviously put a lot of thought into before they put them on.  On Shabbat, things were open and many families were wandering around enjoying the nice day. In Jerusalem, the only people wandering around are the Ultra-Orthodox who trek to visit the Western Wall. Most other people seem to say shut up in their respective corners of Jerusalem, not even attempting to navigate Jerusalem when the bus and train systems are shut down for the day. From living in a world where I am constantly aware of how I am dressed, who I am sitting next to, if I am touching anyone...I went to a world where I could hug my guy friends without second guessing myself, where I could wear a tank top without fear of offending other people, where I could put money into the hand of the cashier.

A sign posted casually in Jerusalem.

What I noticed the most were the colors. I know I am getting the Winter Blahs when I start to notice the lack of color. People seem to associate dark colors with Winter time, something that I have never understood. All my winter clothes (ok, all my clothes in general) are BRIGHT. In Jerusalem, everyone is always wearing dark clothes. This is due mainly to the fact that so many people are religious and that black/white are considered modest, conservative colors. Most of all, I enjoyed seeing all the people wearing red!  I never see people wear red here - it draws too much attention and is considered, my Hasidic professor informed me, rather licentious.

Jerusalemites at the train station.

Studying abroad is challenging. Many things about living in Israel are not challenging. Most people speak English and much of the culture shows strong Western influences. But living in Jerusalem can be exhausting. Most of the time. I thrive on the difficulties of living here. I am being pushed to think differently about the world. And it is changing me. I could not believe the superficiality of the people in Tel Aviv! To spend so much time doing nothing! Hanging out, sitting and talking, eating in cafes? And now, back in Jerusalem, I cannot believe how much time people spend on their faith. Always rushing off to pray, to attend a service or to prepare?

When discussing my time here with a friend who has been to Colorado, she suggested that Colorado and Jerusalem are deep in different way. Colorado is rich in its landscape. I can stand almost anywhere and be able to see for miles. In Jerusalem, I can barely see to the end of the next road. There are always walls and fences in the way. And Jerusalem is made up of tons of hills, which makes walking anywhere invigorating, to say the least. Although I might feel claustrophobic, it is my inner eye that is being opened. I am constantly challenged to consider religion, spirituality and morality, both my own and others (and how the two affect one another!).

I have heard of Jerusalem Syndrome. It was explained to me that after people live in Jerusalem for a bit, they begin to grow more and more religious. They leave and eventually must return, for they are unable to find  the same level of religious and spiritual depth anywhere else in the world. "They basically go crazy!" my friend said, summing it all up in her own way (I find it so fascinating and strange how the secular and the religious judge one another here). I do not know if I am more religious or more spiritual. But I know it now. It is in Jerusalem's air and I breathe it in constantly. Jerusalem is within me! I do not know if that makes me feel more crazy or more sure of the world!