Trip Number 2: Ein Gedi, Masada and the Dead Sea

You know those moving staircases in Hogwarts Castle? That is sometimes what I feel like life is like in Israel. I do not have to decide or plan out trips I want to take, I just shove stuff in a backpack and GO!
Which is how I came to be found in my kitchen at 12:30AM, cooking all the food I had, trying to pack enough for 2 people to survive for 2 days without buying food. Potato/ginger/curry, green beans and garlic, onions/red peppers/lots of salt, tons of rice, 3 cucumbers, figs, all ready to go. At 2:30AM I went to bed.

8:45AM and I am ready to go, sleeping bag and mat borrowed, as little packed as possible as my bag is mostly full of food. On my way, in a group of 12 people to Ein Gedi, the Dead Sea and Masada. The plan is to hike in the Ein Gedi nature reserve the first day, camp overnight, hike Masada and float in the Dead Sea.









Hike we did, once we finally found the nature reserve.











The desert is BEAUTIFUL. Very dry (obviously, but it needed to be said) and so vast.

 We were hiking next to a tiny little spring that blossomed into waterfalls at various points of the hike. There were many families out, kids splashing around in the cool water. Really makes you think about the value of water. This little bit of green was so precious in the dusty landscape. I was also constantly aware of how much water I had at my disposal, as it was sloshing around heavily on my back.







Up and up and up. If you were to slip, you would slide down forever on grayish reddish rocks. The higher we went, the more amazing the view was.









We could see most of the Dead Sea and so many dunes/cliffs spread below. Barely any green, mainly yellow, and so quiet. Across from us rose more mountains of a similar style: Jordan.

We ended up camping right next to the Dead Sea. I decided not to partake in the evening swim in the Dead Sea as I was already there on Birthright. I also have been deeply scarred by middle school camping trips where I was always freezing, so I was trying my hardest to contain my warmth. This became a bit ridiculous when I had put 4 layers of clothes on and it was still about 75 degrees outside. Amazingly, it remained warm the entire night!!!! We sat around, ate junk food (because there ARE stores, albeit overpriced ones), talked, stared at the millions of stars.

On the edge of one of the Jordanian mountains, I spotted an orange glow. What could it be? The sun rising (it was about 7PM)? A bomb (wow, so negative)? No, is it? Could it really be? It is! It's the moon! As orange as the sun, it rose so quickly. The pitch black that we had experienced for about an hour was gone, as the world around us was light with the dusky white light of the moon. I watched it rise, entranced by its movement. Around me the air was warm and filled with sounds of singing (as huge family groups celebrated Sukkot with a DJ singing Israeli/Jewish songs) and the laughter of my fellows travelers as they talked and tried to dance along to the music (very difficult, as the announcer sang about 35 seconds of each song than got bored and switched). I found myself engaged in many interesting, deep conversations, than floated peacefully in my own thoughts for a while.



Eventually, it was time for bed. A friend and I spread out our sleeping bag and blanket, which we were sharing, and lay down. Above us, the sky was still alive, full of mystical clouds and stars and the moon. That beautiful Lady Moon. I felt myself more in touch with the mystical, spiritual, pagan, witchcraft part of my beliefs. After all, we are all made of stars. So I slept. Next to two friends, a wash of stars above, tons of rocks below, and us, so small, at peace, there, in that moment.
I woke to the hot pink of the sunrise. The entire campsite was waking up with the sun. The Dead Sea was sparkling tantalizingly as the sky moved from pink to peach to orange to yellow to blue. And we were off again.





Up Masada we went on the Snake Path. I have climbed Masada before, but I guess we took the easy route. My body was tired and the steps grew increasingly steep. Not to mention that it was the middle of the day and the sun was beating down on us ruthlessly! Increased my respect for ancestors who lived in the desert. Made me a bit bitter about the people whizzing over my head in the 67NIS cable car to the top.














































With many stops to admire the view (read: catch our breath), we made it to the top of the mountain and began to explore Masada, one of the oldest Roman ruin sites.












Masada was the Winter Palace of the Roman King Herod in the 3-4 centures BCE.













Later, along with the destruction of the Second Temple in 70 CE, Jews holed themselves up in Masada, trying to stave of the siege of the Romans. They held out for a surprisingly long time, but eventually realized the Romans would capture them and make them slaves. Thus, there was a mass suicide, as the Jews would rather die than be made slaves.

Today, Masada remains an very important symbol for Israel. We witnessed a young boy being Bar Mitzvahed and were told that soldiers swear their oath of service on Masada.






We wandered in the three palaces on top of Masada, descended into a huge water cistern, marveled at the beautiful mosaics on the ground of the Western Palace. We continued to be awed by the amazing view, shouted and listened to the echo of our voices as they bounced among the mountains, were astonished at the fact that a palace on top of a mountain had so many baths and ritual cleansing spaces.

It sure was hot! We made our way back down, hopped on a sherut and made it back to Israel by about three. Covered in dust, coming home to little or no food in my pantry, sleep deprived, I realized how lucky I am to be able to travel like this. I can experience so much and end up back in a familiar place. I get to sleep in my bed, cook, take a shower and then go out and do it all again. Why can't all traveling be like this?!

Elisa's Travel Tip: Do not travel in a group of 12 people. It is too many. To fully experience a place and the people, traveling with up to 2 people seems like the best idea. Unless the group you are with is comfortable splitting up. 

Elisa's Travel Tip: Travel with people you know you like. Because when you get tired and cranky, you will hate even the people you like. If the people you are with get on your nerves normally, it will be more difficult!